Reclaimed wood - Queen size headboard

This is my first project that I designed myself! I had a general idea of the plan from one on Ana's site, but when I was trying to purchase reclaimed wood, the 1x6 @ 4ft were a better bang for my buck. The variation in the wood is just gorgeous, I'm obsessed! This project cost me about $120.

10 - 1x6 @ 4ft - cut to whatever size you choose
1x3 & 1x2 for supports & trim

For the finish I painted 2 of the panels with white spray paint & then distressed with my sander so some of the wood grain would show through. I stained 2 other panels with "sunbleached" see below. For the rest of the panels I left them in their natural beauty! The supports & trim pieces were brand new (whitewood), so I stained them with the "dark walnut".

Since I am an Army Wife & we move a lot I wanted to make sure that this piece of furniture would hold up to the beating it is going to get. In the pic to the left you can see where I placed my poket holes & that I placed the back supports in the same place that I placed the front trim pieces. When working with recliamed wood, don't force the wood to connect. Leave some of the gaps alone, you don't want to ruin the project & cause the wood to split even more.

For the legs I used a 1x3 & then attached a 1x2 on top of that with wood glue & counter-sunk screws. Fill in holes with wood filler! Put your horizontal trim pieces on the front, last. Measure each piece, because this wood was reclaimed & some pieces were split so the top & bottom pieces didn't end up being the same length.

 

 

 

DIY - Rustic Serving Tray

I made this easy project using a left over piece of 1x12 from another project! I decided to make it 18" long. For the sides I used 1x3. Measure each side & cut at 45 degrees off square. For added support, I attached the sides with PH screws from the bottom/underneath using my Kreg Jig & wood glue! To connect the 4 corners - I used wood glue & 1 1/4" finish nails.  Use your power sander to distress the paint if you like the way mine looks; I say - embrace the flaws in your wood! Last, add the poly/top coat with a foam brush for added durability.

Work Bench #2

My original work bench was my very first build; so it was not level. I must admit I had yet to purchase my counter-sinking drill bit & had not figured out how to use my Kreg Jig either! It is going to be used for storage now. I am proud to say build #2 is level! I would recommend changing the height of the legs to 30" for this plan to compensate for the height wheels. To see the build plans for this work bench click here or you can also search for it on Ana's website!

My compound miter saw is going to be so happy on the top of this baby, rolling smoothly around the garage! :)

 Happy Building!
~B

Triple Truss Coffee Table with Casters!

You too can turn this...

Into this:

For the plans on how to make this huge coffee table go to Ana White's site!
 I used my Kreg Jig to build this guy!

For the slats on the bottom measure from the end point of the 2x4 not the part where it is connected. I also drew little stars so I wouldn't get confused:

I would recommend sanding, staining & putting the poly on the base before attaching the top planks. There are a lot of angles that would be more difficult to get to if you wait until it is completely built.

For my casters: I chose these industrial beauties! They will rust though, so I would not use these if you are making this table for outside! My regular wood screws weren't wide enough for the casters holes, so I used my 1 1/4" PH screws to attach them to the bottom.

To see my brag on Ana's site click here!
Here are some more pictures! My stain color of choice: Dark Walnut. I added some industrial corner brackets to the top 4 corners as well! They match my wheels!

Thanks for stopping by!
B

Rustic Bookcase

I'm finally finished with my best build yet! But FIRST, we must say goodbye to the partical board bookcase (piece of crap & lacked character) that used to be in our guest room. You were $40 - purchased from a big box store & never made me happy like my new handmade one does. You have been offically kicked to the curb! Sayonara!







Here is the beauty!

 Make sure you right down the places where you are going to put the shelf so they are even & match up. Use your speed square for straight lines!

 I used my Kreg Jig to build the box of the bookcase. It is such an amazing tool, that makes furniture building so much easier!

I used my Arrow Nail gun with 1 1/4" brad nails to attach the back boards & side trim. Use your wood glue too though for added strength!

I stained/oxidized & then put poly on all of the back planks before attaching them. For the oxidize mixture scroll down. The 3 stains I used are Sunbleached, Dark Walnut & Early American. I did 2 boards per color. For the back I used 8 - 1x4"s, instead of plywood.

Don't forget to give it a good sanding before putting the stain on! I chose Dark Walnut!

 

 Build plans from Ana White's Book The Handbuilt Home.

Don't stain, OXIDIZE!

To create the oxidize mixture fill a glass jar half way with white vinegar. Next, cut up very small pieces of Grade #0000 Steel wool (I found it at lowes, near the paint section) & add to vinegar jar. It will take 1 -2 weeks to begin to rust; shake it occasionally.
It should look like something this when its ready to be used:


Paint the mixture on your project with a foam brush. At first it won't look like anything is happening: Like this picture:




Give it an hour or so to soak in & then you will have a beautiful weathered look! See picture below the original color of the wood next to the oxidized piece. I used polyurethane to seal it. It brings out even more of a rich brown, which I love!

For more info on oxidizing wood & for low VOC finishes click: The Friendly Home

2X4 Outdoor Bench

My bench got a coat of white paint: here it is with the table I designed. Search outdoor table for the build plan! 

 

 

 Here is a new picture of my bench - 2 years later! :)

 

 

Lots of angle cuts! Happy Building!

http://www.ana-white.com/2012/04/plans/providence-bench

*Build Plans from Ana White


Don't forget to fill in the screws on seat with stainable wood filler.




Final Touch
   After lots of sanding, I used Sunbleached & waited until it dried. Then I layered on Kona, in random spots very thick & then light. I wanted my bench to have a weathered look. Finally I used Rust-oleum's Spar Varnish in Satin, because this will be out in the elements. If you are planning on using your bench inside you can just use poly.

Click HERE  to see my Brag on Ana White's website!

Living Room - End table

 

Can you see a reoccuring theme here? I like rustic decor! For the plans on how to build this table click here: Ana-White.com. I had a very difficult time with the X part of the table in the plans so I just left the x cross part off, they aren't structural supports so it doesn't matter!

Click here to see my brag on Ana's website!

Rustic X Bench

The plans on how to build this bench are inside Ana White's book The Handbuilt Home. My compound miter saw was very helpful, so if you don't have one, I am not sure if I would recommend this project. For the stain I used Early American & Dark Walnut. I randomly applied the colors & then blended together.
Click here to see my brag on Ana's website!

$15 DIY Mirror

Shopping List:
2  - 1 x 4 @ 8ft White wood
Liquid Nails

Cutting List:
2  - 48" Long point to long point (ends are not parallel)
2  -17 1/4" Long point to long point (ends are not parallel)

Do you have a full length mirror with an ugly cheap frame? Build this frame & make the mirror instantly look expensive!  Rip off the paper backing & then take a box cutter along the edge of where the frame & mirror on the back. Don't bend it, you could break the mirror! Use wood glue & finishing nails, I used 1 1/4" nails, or you could use a staple gun on the back side. If you want to sand your wood do it before attaching the mirror. Next, attach the mirror to the frame with some liquid nails. Don't use too much or it will squish out onto your mirror! I used a Dark Walnut stain & then clear coat/poly to finish.

Build plans provided by Shanty 2 Chic

Sturdy Work Bench

That's right I know how to use & own power tools! I am so excited about my new hobby! My first project, a work bench. I couldn't sit on the floor every time I needed to use my saw! Ana White is such an inspiration to me! She helped me realize that I can build furniture, just like she does! She has so much information on her blog & I also purchased her book, Handbuilt Home. To view Ana's website click HERE.

I made the top surface of the bench with 2 x 6's instead of a sheet of plywood, because I don't have a circular saw yet, & I would not recommend it because its a little bit wonky. This was my first project & I had not figured out to use my Kreg Jig yet.

A helpful tip I would not cut the 12" pieces of the supports for the top first thing, wait to make those cuts until after you get the base together. I learned that 2x4s are not really 2" by 4", they are just short of that. I also added 2 more 2x4s on the bottom shelf to make it wider. Its definitely a very heavy & sturdy work bench, & if I ever need to move it that is what my husband is for! No more sitting on the floor to make cuts with my miter saw! Happy Building!

Dimensions

             

24W x 48L x 34H

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

9 - 2"x4"x8' (about $2 a stick)
1 - 24"x48"x1" laminated pine board from the Home Depot (about $20)

2 1/2 inch screws

wood filler

120 grit sandpaper

wood conditioner

paint brush

Tools:

measuring tape

pencil

drill

circular saw

countersink drill bit

Cut List

8 - 2x4 @ 33"
4 - 2x4 @ 3"
2 - 2x4 @ 16
4 - 2x4 @ 40
4 - 2x4 @ 12

Cutting Instructions:

All of the cuts I've described use true-measurement 2x4s. If you purchase 2x4s that are in fact only 1.75"x3.75", the cut list will still work, but your base will contract by an inch in each direction. I've listed all the cuts as being made by a circular-saw. In fact, I used a miter saw and, if you prefer, you could use a simple chop-saw as well.

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

First, cut two 2x4s to length (I picked 33 inches). Fasten them together at a ninety-degree angle (I used three equally spaced 2.5 inch construction screws).

Step 2

Lather, rinse, repeat: you need three more legs to build the bench.

Step 3

Next, cut a 2x4 into four sections, each three inches in length. Secure them to the bottoms of the legs using two construction fasteners to keep them in place.
If you'd like, you can skip this step. I find, though, that adding cleats to the bottom of the legs is helpful for three reasons: (1) because it's easy to make sure every cleat is the same size, it makes leveling the stretchers easy; (2) they support the stretchers better than screws would by themselves, and (3) they add surface area to the feet of the legs, which makes the whole project sturdier.

Step 4

Now it's time to add shelf supports. The length of your shelf supports will determine the width of your project, so consider how long you want them to be.
I knew that I would be using a 24"x48" top, and wanted a two-inch overhang on the front and back so, subtracting four inches for the legs, I cut my shelf supports to 16-inches each.

Step 5

Now it's time to add the shelves. These will determine the length of your project so, again, consider how long you want them to be.
I knew that I would be using a 24"x48" top, and wanted a two-inch overhang on the sides so, subtracting four inches for the legs, I cut my shelf supports to 40-inches each.

Step 6

Next, cut stretchers to the same length as you chose for the shelves, and fasten them to the top of the legs.

Step 7

Now add supports for the top. These should be four inches shorter than the shelf supports you originally cut so, in my case, 12 inches each. I've found, thus far, that four were sufficient to keep my pretty flimsy top secure but, depending on the material you use, you might prefer more (or less).
Space them evenly, and secure with two screws..

Step 8

I added a 24"x48" top made out of laminated pine 1x2s from the Home Depot. They're cheap and, after I varnished it, reasonably hard. I was also in a bit of a hurry to get the project done, so speed and ease of construction were issues for me. I joined the top to the stretchers and supports with counter-sunk screws that I filled with wood-putty and sanded flush.
If you'd prefer, you can build a top yourself, in any of a number of ways. I considered using 2x4s joined to one another, but was concerned that the grooves would trap nails and saw-dust.
Another idea would be to stack three pieces of plywood on top of one another, cut to size. That would provide strength and durability that my flimsy one-inch top will ultimately lack.

PLANS PROVIDED BY : Ana White